There is a global rarity in south-central Chile, an entire forest of ancient larch trees comprising a temperate rainforest. After years of depradation, these magnificent, centuries-old trees are holding their own.

When I visited Los Alarces (the larches) in late November, the antipodean season was late spring. The bad news was that I was rained out of much film photography. The wonderful news was that I was the only guest at a remarkable lodge, ahead of seasonal crowds.

This lodge is so isolated that it requires 45+ minutes' drive from Puerto Montt, the last 15 minutes of which are in the forest and definitely require four-wheel drive. There is no phone; even the lodge's communications with the Pto. Montt office are via short-wave radio. There are no televisions, of course.